restaurant paustian v. bo bech
Last week I blogged about our Noma experience which was fantastic and the main reason for our visit to the Danish capital, but we did squeeze in a couple of other restaurants while there. Our evenings at both were stellar and although I was unable to get any decent images due to dim lighting* (the bane of every food blogger), I wanted to mention both meals briefly, starting with the superb Restaurant Paustian v. Bo Bech.
A 20-minute cab ride from the town centre, the Michelin-starred restaurant is attached to a designer furniture store (Paustian) situated by the dock. The lofty space is cheery and stylishly furnished, with a comfortably casual and friendly atmosphere – as we walked in the statuesque chef and owner Bo Bech (listed as one of 2009′s Rising Stars by Food & Wine) waved to us from the open kitchen.
We chose to have ‘The Alchemist’ (the chef’s surprise menu) and having no preconceived notions of chef bech’s cuisine we were blown away by the beautifully executed, and sometimes surprising, dishes offered to us throughout the evening. From the delightful first bite – a crispbread the size of a frisbee and similar in texture to a tuile, topped with finely shaved chestnut, to the single salad leaf we were presented mid-meal that magically tasted of pure oyster.
Truly standout courses included the Salt Baked Celeriac with Creamy Oysters and Parsley – a beautiful oyster cream tasting of the sea, sandwiched between two large thin discs of sweet, tender celeriac which was pleasingly chewy at the edges. Another winner were the Aesthetic Langoustines in smoldering Wild Pine Needles perfumed with smoke – they tasted like they had just come off the barbecue but were impossibly soft, as if they had been lightly poached. They were absolutely stunning and B declared them to be the best langoustines he had ever tasted.
Oftentimes chefs are let down by one area (usually the main or dessert) but all of the offerings on the carefully considered tasting menu were wonderful. Of the sweets I particularly enjoyed the Candied and Creamed Salsify with Coconut Fat (cream) which was like eating really delicious snow. The chocolate dessert composed of bitter chocolate sorbet, super thing chocolate wafers, chocolate caramels, chocolate truffle and cocoa cake crumbs was surprisingly light and exceedingly good.
Dining at Restaurant Paustian was a real pleasure; Bo’s food was sophisticated and creative, but without being overcomplicated or overworked.
Restaurant Paustian v. Bo Bech
2100 Copenhagen Ø
t. +45 3918 5501
* opening image of the restaurant interior taken from the Bo Bech website