wright brothers of borough market
B’s dad raved about Wright Brother’s Oyster and Porterhouse the last time he was in town so we went to check it out on a (relatively) warm Saturday afternoon. Borough Market was packed when we got there, as was Wright Brothers, but we had made reservations so were led past the throng by the friendly waiter, to our seats at the bar. There were three menu boards (oysters, specials and the main menu) with plenty of choice, which inevitably led us to overorder. To go with our seafood feast, B chose a 2007 Saint-Véran Tradition from Colloveray et Terrier – a crisp, green and lemony tipple.
First to arrive were a dozen of large Speciales de Claires (first image) which we really enjoyed – plump, pure and clean in taste, yet creamy. The half pint of shell-on Atlantic Prawns that followed were messy to eat, but worth the extra effort – tender and sweet, they were lovely smothered in the eggy mayonnaise.
The Oysters Rockefeller and Kilpatrick were delicious, although understandably (as they were cooked), the oysters used were not as good as the Speciales de Claires. The spinach mornay on the Rockefellers was very light and didn’t overpower the delicate oyster, while the crispy bacon on the Kilpatricks made a great pairing with the fleshy oysters.
We quickly finished the oysters to make room for the whitebait and chowder that arrived next. The lightly floured and fried Devilled Whitebait (served with tartare sauce) were very moreish and the Saint-Véran went down very well with them.
The Clam and Crab Chowder was not quite as good. Although the soup was chockful of clams (I didn’t notice much crab), very flavourful and well seasoned, it was too thin and runny to make a satisfying mouthful.
The Oyster New Orleans special in contrast was excellent – crispy breadcrumb coating making way for a soft and creamy oyster centre, perfectly brought together by the piquant tartare sauce. Despite being more than adequately full we had a third bottle of wine left to drink so ordered a dozen of the pricey West Mersea no.3s.
The West Merseas looked and tasted very different to the Speciales de Claires, delicate with a metallic aftertaste. We were glad to have tried them, but much preferred the Claires. As the waitress brought over the bill she looked admirably at the empty plates and pronounced that we did well. Our round stomachs agreed.
The food was fantastic and the bustling restaurant had a great atmosphere. We did however find it a little difficult to have our meal at a leisurely pace as the items came thick and fast, leading to a bit of a plate pile-up on our tiny table. The best thing would probably be order in two rounds, or just get a large cold seafood platter and slowly work your way through. I think we will being doing the latter on our next visit here.
Wright Brothers Oyster and Porter House
11 Stoney Street
London, SE1 9AD
t. 020 7403 9554