ippudo

Speaking of noodles, I obviously wouldn’t visit Japan without eating in at least one ramen joint. The styles of ramen vary greatly, from simple shoyu ramen at Aoba, to the lighter yuzu shio ramen (also soy-based) at Afuri, to the hardcore thick sauce-like soup at Jiro (not to be confused with Sukiyabashi Jiro), which with its large dose of suspended pork fat is not for the faint-hearted. With time to visit only one we decided to go with the safe choice of Ippudo, a reputable chain specialising in Hakata-style Tonkotsu ramen from Kyushu. The tiny Roppongi branch was bustling when we arrived but turnover was swift and we were seated in a larger seating area down the back within 10 minutes.

Food arrived quickly too. Dinky bite-sized gyoza were fantastic – thin dumpling skin tender but with a slight chew and crisped to golden on the base encasing a delicious juicy pork filling. I’d happily pop these handmade beauties, a snip at ¥400 (£3) for ten, all day long.

Steamed Pork Bun on the other hand really wasn’t worth ordering – the thick slab of was pork was bland and dry, and the lone blob of mustard did little to help it along. Give this a miss and just order an extra helping of gyoza.

Ippudo offer a number of different ramen as well as few rice options (menu here). I went for the Akamaru Ramen (with an added soft boiled egg, naturally) – thin elastic noodles swimming in a rich tonkotsu pork bone broth glistening with pork fat and drizzled with black koyu (fragrant oil). Tasty and oh so satisfying.

B’s choice was Shiromaru, the classic Ippudo ramen (also pork-based), which was slightly richer in taste. You can order both the Akamura and Shiromaru as Specials which includes extra toppings of egg, wantan, kikurage (tree mushrooms) and beansprouts, in addition to the standard chashu, spring onions and seaweed. There’s also one topped with spicy miso (Ippudo Karaka), another with a shoyu chicken broth (Hakata Chuka) and the thicker udon-like Hakata Tsukumen, eaten dipped into a shellfish-enriched pork broth. If only I had the capacity to try them all.

Ippudo is reliable, solid choice for tonkotsu ramen and at an average of ¥800 (£6) a bowl, a real quality budget option. With it’s English menus and clean modern digs, it’s also probably one of the most foreigner-friendly.

Ippudo
Odagiri Building 1F
4-9-11 Roppongi
Minato-ku, Tokyo

t. +81 (0)3 5775 7561

honmura an

Of the many noodles that hail from Japan, somen and soba are my favourite. Honmura An specialises in the latter – springy chewy buckwheat strands served either hot or cold, with a variety of toppings. The extensive à la carte menu handily includes detailed English translations (owner Koichi Kobari started a hugely successful Honmura An in New York before returning home to set up shop in Roppongi) and not only features numerous soba offerings (uni, ikura, duck and tempura are popular picks) but also an extensive selection of izakaya-style dishes.

The six of us decided to order a soba each and a bunch of small plates to share. I did glance at the seasonal tasting menu as well, and the amuse bouche of Fresh Yuba with Uni, Ikura and Okura looked too good to pass up so a few of us ordered the one-bite dish to start. I didn’t care for the slimy okra, but the combination of cold milky yuba (tofu skin) sheets, briny bursts of roe and sweet creamy uni offset by a gentle wasabi kick was spot-on.

Baby Aji Mackerel from Suruga Bay, butterflied and fried till crisp were tasty and very moreish (shame we only ordered enough for one each).

Baby Wakasaga Smelt, also deep-fried but left whole and served on a bed of lightly dressed spring salad was equally addictive.

Tako Shiso Satsumaage, a lightly fried fish cake with chopped octopus served with shredded shiso leaves and grilled shishito pepper was sweet and pleasingly springy.

I love fresh tofu and seized every chance to order it while in Tokyo. Honmura An’s Hiya Yakko was lovely – yielding blocks of cold bonito-crowned tofu accented with refreshing slivers of myoga and a smidgen of grated ginger.

Tori Dango, highlighted in the menu as a signature item, were a real let-down. The deep-fried chicken meatballs not only looked unappealing but tasted greasy, with the texture of processed meat.

Agedashi Tofu was a crowd-pleaser – soft wobbly tofu encased in light golden batter and dunked in a clear dashi-based soup strewn with nameko mushrooms and chopped mitsuba.

Tender stems of Nanohana (spring mustard greens) needed no embellishment except for a trickle of mustard soy and scant sprinkling of bonito flakes.

Braised Pork Belly with Bamboo Shoots was deeply savoury and surprisingly light, the slow-cooked meat practically fell apart in the mouth.

Finally, it was time for the main event – the soba. I had the famous Uni Soba (opening pic), which when tossed together became a heavenly mass of toothsome noodles coated with luscious sea urchin and laced with toasted nori and mild raw onion. Others on the table also enjoyed their soba choices which included one topped with grated Mountain Yam, Uni and Okura, and another paired with Japanese Wild Vegetables.

Once the noodles have been slurped up we were given a small teapot of hot sobayu (the water in which the handmade soba was cooked) to mix with the remaining sauce in our bowls and drink as a warming end to the meal. The soba-yu is thought to be highly nutritious as buckwheat flour is rich in vitamins and dietary fibre.

Writing about Honmura An makes me terribly sad that we don’t have a soba-dedicated eatery here. However with the snaking queues at Koya and the sudden influx of ramen vendors, I’m hoping that it won’t be long before a soba-ya hits London.

Honmura An
7-14-18 Roppongi,
Minato-ku, Tokyo

t. +81 (0)3 5772 6657

kondo

As promised, I’m picking up where I left off with Tokyo. In a bid to get the rest of these posts out within a respectable timeframe I’ll keep things brief and just let the pictures speak for themselves. Our daytime visit to tempura master Fumio Kondo‘s restaurant (hidden on the 9th floor of a narrow non-discript Ginza building) on the second day of our trip saw my first foray into the world of Michelin-starred deep frying. The JPY8,400 (£68)Tsubaki lunch course (a smaller set priced at JPY6,300 with fewer and slightly different items is also available; dinner sets are considerably steeper) featured a line-up of impeccable vegetable and seafood tempura, cloaked in crispy light-as-air batter. From the counter seats we watched chef Kondo cook each ingredient in a simmering vat of sesame oil, turning occasionally with chopsticks and waiting patiently for the perfect moment to pluck the golden pieces out and set them before us.

Prawns were served in two parts – crunchy heads were packed with shellfish flavour (excellent with beer!) while the bodies were sweet and succulent.

Asparagus (vegetables offered vary seasonally) spear segments were bright green and crisp-tender. Kondo famously stores his vegetables on ice to retain their moisture.

A chunky slice of lotus root was toothsome but rather bland – I feel the vegetable lends itself more to being braised in a hearty stew where it’s allowed to sit and soak up all the flavours.

Kisu (Japanese whiting) however, eaten with salt and a squeeze of sudachi (a local citrus fruit similar to lime), was beautifully delicate in both taste and texture.

Fiddleheads suited a tempura preparation well – the characteristic subtle bitterness a great foil to the oiliness of the batter.

I love Japanese aubergines with their compact size, mild near-seedless flesh and glossy thin skins. Velvety and tender, they contrasted nicely with the crunch of the tempura coating.

A second fish, Megochi (flathead fish), was meatier and more robust than the earlier kisu, standing up well to the older oil (the sesame oil imparts a stronger flavour on each re-use).

I wasn’t too keen on the onion which hadn’t cooked through. It may have been a sweet varietal but personally I don’t really enjoy biting into whole raw onions.

Meltingly-soft Anago (eel) was unfortunately marred by a faint taste of grease, which, together with the deeper colour of the batter indicated that the batch of oil was probably ready for a change.

Last of the tempura, was Kakiage Ten-cha – a mass of battered scallop and honewort perched on a bed of rice served with a pouring of tea and pickles (you can also opt to have the kakiage served as tendon – soaked in sauce, on a bowl of rice, or simply with rice and dipping sauce). Fresh fruit rounded off the meal nicely, refreshing the palate.

You can certainly see the quality at Kondo – from the well-sourced seasonal produce (all local to Japan), to the greaseless paper-thin batter that accentuate rather than overshadow the ingredients. On this same trip we also ate at fellow 2 Michelin-starred Rakutei, a small 11-seater in Akasaka helmed by an elderly couple (the restaurant has been around for decades) and their sole kitchen assistant. The cooking was precise and ingredients just as good, but the vibe could not be more different. For me, the cosy tea-house styling and humbler location sets it apart from Kondo in a positive way, and that together with chef Ishikura’s fluffier batter edges it over the glitzier Ginza restaurant. That said, if you want more polish in surroundings and innovative à la carte items then Kondo is the choice for you.

Kondo
Sakaguchi Building 9th floor
5-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
t. +81 (0)3 5568 0923

Rakutei
Music inn Akasaka Building
6-8-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
t. +81 (0)3 3585 3743

sushi tetsu

First off, apologies for the snail’s pace at which I’m rolling out the Tokyo posts. I’m hoping to step it up a gear and churn out a steady stream in the next week or so. In the meantime, I’d like to bring to your attention a new Japanese gem closer to home. Sprung up on sleepy Jerusalem Passage in Clerkenwell a short few weeks ago, Sushi Tetsu has already garnered a loyal following of regulars (I myself will be making my fifth visit this weekend) who have long been thirsting for an authentic edomae sushi-ya to grace our shores. I must admit I’ve deliberately dragged my heels a little on this one, reluctant as I am to send even more people flocking to this treasure of a place.

Run by chef Toru Takahashi and his wife Harumi, this 7-seater restaurant stays true to the traditional model of a sushi bar – more so than anything else in London. The fish is sourced mainly from Billingsgate and everything I have sampled there thus far has been excellent. A recent sashimi assortment included stunning rich Sardines, gleaming silky Chu-toro, plump scorched Scallops and the clean flavours of Sea Bream tossed with shredded shiso.

The menu features various sets (ranging from £9.80-£24.80 at lunch, and £20-£38 in the evening), as well as sushi and sashimi à la carte. I prefer to leave the selection in the capable hands of Toru-san, asking him to choose the best of the day’s haul. Beware if you choose to take this route as the beautifully formed nigiri is so moreish that it’s quite easy to rack up a substantial bill – especially if you order that extra slice or two of o-toro!

Toru-san crafts and presents the sushi piece by piece, placing it on a fresh bamboo leaf in front of the diner to be eaten immediately by hand (as it is done traditionally – a wet napkin is provided to clean fingers between pieces) or with chopsticks. Personally I enjoy the tactile intimacy of eating with my fingers. A dish for soy sauce is offered, but not necessary. Toru-san seasons each perfectly, customising according to the tane (topping).

His sushi-meshi (vinegared rice) boasts an excellent balance of sweetness, acidity and savouriness that makes it an all-rounder that matches as well with a delicate Hirame (flounder) as it does with a creamy slab of Hamachi (yellowtail).

Tuna is undoubtably the most prized fish for the Japanese and on most days Toru-san will have a number of cuts varying in fattiness (and sometimes in origin – he has served me both Spanish and Croatian varieties) tucked snuggly in one of his storage boxes.

The Akami (lean tuna) at your standard sushi chain is often pale, sinewy and watered-down in taste – nothing like this vibrant jewel-red specimen which was succulent and intensely flavourful.

Chu-toro (medium fatty tuna) was even better – a thick blanket of luxurious velvety melt-in-the-mouth goodness.

A favourite of many, O-toro (fatty tuna) had a richer taste, with an oilier mouth-feel. Toru-san assesses each tuna he receives from his supplier to determine whether or not to age the fish for a few days to enhance/develop its flavour.

Depending on the day’s delivery, the level of marbling in the tuna can vary greatly – this O-toro nigiri which I was served on another day had a much greater fat content.

The higher level of fattiness lends itself to blow-torching (the sear softens the sinews and releases a tantalising aroma) so Toru-san served a second portion aburi. This preparation was the superior of the two – smoky, less greasy on the palate and practically disintegrating on the tongue.

Although hugely popular in the western world, salmon is not a typical sushi choice in Japan. In fact you won’t even find it on the menu at many of the top sushi-yas in Tokyo. I can usually do without it but was curious to try the Sake from Toru-san’s stash. To my surprise it was quite unlike any I’ve had before – with a denser balik-like consistency and more concentrated salmon flavour.

Often I find Razor Clam served raw to have a more than a hint of fishiness which can be off-putting. Tetsu’s flame-kissed version however was a revelation – sweet, tender with a slight crunch and tasting of the sea.

Another unexpected standout was the Ebi. Freshly-shelled and cooked slightly under, it was quickly torched on the cut side before being placed on a mound of rice and brushed with soy. I’ve had many a dry and bland boiled prawn nigiri, and this was like none of those – juicy and supple, with a well-judged balance of sweet and brine.

Lovely fat Hotate (scallop), lightly blistered, was smooth and creamy in the mouth. Sublime.

Most of the fish was simply treated with a slick of seasoned soy but Toru-san is not averse to slightly more elaborate garnishes if warranted. Vinegary cured Saba was presented covered with a paper-thin rectangle of marinated kombu that countered the mackerel’s oiliness perfectly.

Toru-san painstakingly massages his Tako for an hour and it shows – the lightly seared octopus, nicely accented with a dab of umeboshi (salted plum) and bound to the rice with a strip of nori, was incredibly soft and tender.

Swordfish was briefly marinated in soy and a house-made sauce, wiped clean then slashed in a criss-cross pattern before being blow-torched and topped with negi and togarashi. There was a satisfying robustness – the swordfish more akin in texture to meat than fish.

Aside from nigiri you can also order temaki (hand rolls) and maki. This unusual maki of scallop frills and cucumber was light and refreshing, with an intriguing mix of crunchiness from both the shellfish and vegetable.

Unagi with its sweetness is always a great way to end a sushi flight and this piece was exemplary. I could not help but smile as I slowly savoured it.

Tamago, as much an indicator of the itamae‘s ability as his knife skills or sushi-meshi, takes the place of dessert. Toru-san is constantly tweaking his tamago recipe, but all versions I’ve tasted have been moist, spongy and airy with a depth of flavour from the addition of ground fish and shrimp.

If it isn’t already blindingly apparent – I love this place. And it’s not just the well-crafted sushi that has stolen my heart. Every time I step into that tiny yet perfectly formed space, the zen minimalist interiors and warmth of the animated chef and his delightful wife transport me to a very happy place.

I have long lamented the lack of proper sushi in London, but with the arrival of Sushi Tetsu I need fret no longer.

Sushi Tetsu
12 Jerusalem Passage
London EC1V 4JP

t.020 3217 0090

bird land

Having caught a sneaky glimpse of Bird Land on our visit to Jiro, I could not resist popping in for a pre-dinner snack at grill master Toshiro Wada’s famous yakitoriya. After all our hotel was only a short 10 minute walk away – it would have been rude not to. With a Michelin star under its belt, Bird Land is a more upscale and sanitised version of the grittier haunts you’d find along the atmospheric Shonben Yokocho (aka Memory Lane or Piss Alley) that the local salarymen frequent. Only the best free-range Shamo (gamecocks) raised in the lush river-lined environs of Okukuji are allowed here.

We rocked up just after 5pm to a completely empty restaurant, save for two chefs tending the binchō-tan (white charcoal). It was rather therapeutic watching them silently turn coals to the faint strains of jazz in the background, and I sat mesmerised until the waiter’s offer of sake broke my trance.

We ordered a skewer each of every chicken offering on the menu and a couple of cold starters to tide us over. The Marinated Chicken Skin was rubbery (in a pleasant, addictive way) and had an appetising tang – perfect with our brimming cups of house sake.

Jellied Chicken Gizzards were subtler in taste but I enjoyed the contrast of the crunchy offal against the soft-set jelly.

A short wait, and the skewers started to descend. Chicken Livers were rich, velvety and still pink in the centre.

Kawa and Seseri, two of my favourite chicken bits, was served together on one stick – a genius combination of crisp yet chewy skin and tender flavoursome neck meat.

Zuri (gizzards), simply salted, were enjoyable for mild taste and bouncy texture.

Negima (chicken leg with green onion) was wonderfully juicy and tasty, thanks to a generous slick of tare.

I wasn’t as fond of Bird Land’s tsukune. The balls for me were too soft as the chicken had been ground to an almost sausagemeat consistency. I prefer a slightly courser mince so that the meat retains its integrity – like the ones at Bincho (the fact that they’re served with an egg yolk and a splash of tare doesn’t hurt either!).

A whole chicken thigh was grilled on metal skewers, then removed and cut into portions to serve. A sight to behold with golden skin and rose-tinged meat, it tasted just as great.

As we got stuck into the chicken wings, the last item on our order, I wondered if perhaps there were some special off-menu items we were missing out on. I enquired with the chef and after a brief hesitation he opened one of the drawers under the prep table and placed four extra skewers on the coals for us. Score!

First up were succulent white chunks of what we believed to be sasami (breast fillet), although we weren’t sure as the chef pointed to his side when trying to describe the cut to us. Charred shishito peppers added a lovely smoky aroma to the meat.

Crunchy Nankotsu (cartilage), with plenty of the surrounding meat attached was a real treat despite the extra bit of jaw work needed to get through.

Plump rounded Sori (chicken oysters) looked slightly obscene but were great to sink our teeth into, being both moist and deep in chicken flavour.

Befittingly, the Bonjiri (tail) was the last of the chicken skewers to arrive. The flame-licked fatty morsels were hugely decadent – a true guilty pleasure.

We closed with a couple of the non-chicken options (of which, there were only four). Lightly charred Maitake mushrooms were meaty with a lovely mildy woody aroma.

Myoga (young Japanese ginger) with its gentle bite, countered nicely by the sweet miso topping, made an excellent end to a top-notch bird feast. A few more swigs of sake and we left happily sated, although wishing we were jumping in a cab back to the hotel rather than yet another meal…

Bird Land
Tsukamoto Sogyo Building, B1F
4-2-15, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

t. +81 (0)3 5250 1081

sukiyabashi jiro

Whittling down the mammoth eat list for our recent Tokyo trip was an arduous task – the staggering number of starred restaurants in the capital and our desire to cover all facets of Japanese cuisine in 9 days made it near impossible. Especially difficult was settling on which sushi restaurants to visit, but after watching the breathtaking trailer of David Gelb’s film “Jiro Dreams of Sushi” including Sukiyabashi Jiro was a no-brainer.

Declared as a national treasure, Jiro Ono has devoted most of his 86 years to perfecting the art of sushi and his 10-seater restaurant in Ginza was the first ever sushi-dedicated establishment to garner three Michelin stars. With such accolades to his name you can imagine the anticipation as we arrived at the small humble sushi-ya tucked in the basement of a non-descript office building (where incidently 1* yakitori restaurant Birdland also resides). We were ushered to a waiting area and served tea which we sipped while watching an existing trio at the counter finish their sushi flight.

A few minutes later the three diners were done and we took their vacated seats for our lunch which began almost immediately. First up was a translucent piece of Karei, a flatfish from the flounder family, which was mild in taste and firm against the tongue.

Next was the Sumi-Ika, a thick gleaming piece of squid that possessed a pleasing bite but was still tender, with a nice clean creaminess – B thought it one of the best pieces of squid he has ever eaten.

Inada (young yellowtail) was soft, verging on mushy. It was very subtle taste-wise and we both thought this and the Karei were overpowered by the rice – Jiro’s sushi-meshi has quite a high vinegar content in the seasoning, possibly a touch too much for our liking.

The Akami was fresh and clean – the epitome of a fine piece of lean tuna (akami translates to “red meat” but in sushi terminology always refers to tuna).

Chu-toro, a slightly fattier cut had a velvety texture but was considerably less marbled than your typical medium fatty tuna.

Oo-toro lived up to the name (toro means “to melt”) with its decadent melt-in-the-mouth unctuousness. It is really hard not to love a good specimen of this glorious cut.

Gleaming silvery Kohada was sharp from vinegar yet not so much that the full and strong flavoured fish failed to shine through. A poorly cured Japanese shad, no matter how fresh, can come across fishy but this wasn’t in the slightest. We did however find once again that the highly-vinegared rice threw things off kilter a little.

The peach-hued Akagai (ark shell, or red clam) was excellent, with a snappy crunch and subtle sweetness.

Tako, boiled and simply salted, had great depth of flavour but required a bit of chewing to get through – I had expected it to be more tender as Jiro’s apprentices famously massage the octopus for 45 minutes to soften it prior to cooking.

Aji, or horse mackerel, was soft with a delicate sea-fresh taste.

New to us was the Torigai, a Japanese beak-shaped cockle (hence the name of “chicken clam”) that had a pleasant mild flavour and was not at all rubbery or clammy.

Kuruma-Ebi was sweet and meaty, with a freshness only obtained from the prawn having just been killed and cooked mere minutes before eating.

My favourite of the molluscs was the Hamaguri (hard-shelled clam) which was perfectly accentuated by a slick of sweet sauce.

Saba is almost always salt-cured then rinsed with rice vinegar (mackerel deteriorates quickly so only just-caught specimens can be served raw) and the acid works well to cut through the oiliness of the fish. Jiro’s preparation however was more vinegary than I’m accustomed, and that coupled with his sushi meshi completely overwhelmed the natural taste of the fish.

In a different league was the Uni – possibly the best I’ve ever had. Cold, fresh, sweet and creamy it collapsed seductively onto the nori-wrapped rice. In this instance the vinegar in the rice was a perfect foil to the rich sea urchin.

Kobashira, also encircled with deep green nori (the seaweed was of excellent quality – crisp with a beautiful sheen and tasting faintly of the sea) didn’t enthrall as much as the cluster of small scallops weren’t as sweet as expected.

The nori unfurled from the Ikura nigiri while I was taking my shots and Ono senior told off his son (Yoshikazu was at his father’s side prepping fish for each piece of sushi and wrapping the gunkan) who quickly reached over to correct his work. It was a nice bite – the eye-catching orbs of salmon roe bursted pleasingly on the tongue.

Anago was meltingly tender but the sweet glaze overshadowed rather than complemented the delicate sea eel.

To finish, a golden rectangle of Tamago that was sweet, spongy and custard-like. Egg eaten, Jiro nodded at us, we in turn thanked him for the meal then were swiftly led by Yoshikazu to a side table to partake of dessert (an impossibly juicy slice of honeydew melon) as four well-groomed ladies arrived to perch themselves at the counter.

Jiro clearly likes to stagger the seatings so he can take care of groups individually which although commendable was a double-edged sword. Yes, it was good to have his dedicated attention but he works at lightning speed and we felt terribly rushed – as each piece of sushi met our lips, another was set on the lacquered slab before us. 25 minutes and our JPY30,000 (£230) a head lunch was done. Of course the fish was as fresh as they come, the sushi expertly made, and being served by such a legend was certainly awe-inspiring. But service was hurried and joyless, and aside from the spectacular uni the 18 pieces of nigiri alone weren’t life-changing enough to warrant the hefty price tag.

Two days later we lunched at Sawada in a ritzier part of Ginza. The private beautifully fitted 6-seater restaurant boasted a far lovelier atmosphere and we were served just as many pieces of equally fine nigiri as well as an array of exceptional sashimi for the same price. The meal was enjoyed at a much more leisurely pace (the husband and wife team take only one sitting for lunch, and turns over once at dinner) and Chef Koji Sawada took time to introduce each fish, even cracking a few jokes with his limited English. It was the best dining experience of our trip and my only regret was heeding the “no cameras” sign in the restaurant so I can’t share it visually with you all.

Sukiyabashi Jiro
Tsukamoto Sogyo Building, B1F
4-2-15, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

t. +81 (0)3 3535 3600

tom aikens

Many know Tom Aikens as the volatile head chef who allegedly pulled a knife on a member of his brigade in the kitchens of Pied à Terre, where he first made his name. Or more recently, for declaring bankruptcy leaving a trail of fuming unpaid suppliers (some of whom had to fold themselves as a result) in his wake. Regrettably for Aikens those incidents will forever be associated with his name, casting a shadow over his undeniable talent – he was after all the youngest British chef (at 23 years of age back in 1996) to attain 2 Michelin stars, which he held for the entire period of his 3 year stint as head chef and co-owner of the aforementioned Pied à Terre.

A decade ago, the London restaurant scene was nowhere near as exciting as it is now. And when Aikens opened the original incarnation of his eponymous restaurant in 2003 he was doing some of the most innovative cooking at the time. It was our go-to restaurant for out of town visitors (much like The Ledbury is for us now), and every meal we had there in the early days was an elaborate affair, with every course made up of numerous impeccably executed components.

The current Tom Aikens, reopened in January after a six-month refurb, fits right in with the new wave of low-key eateries. Gone are the pressed linens and chic monochrome colour scheme, replaced by concrete walls, bare wooden floorboards and Noma-esque furnishings. Aside from a few suited senior front of house, the young staff swan about in relaxed outdoor attire, in keeping with the casual feel. The food (prepared by head chef Lee Westcott, with Aikens overseeing most services) has also been scaled back, but retains the same level of detail and precision, and enough bells and whistles to keep the customers happy.

Breads arrive piping hot in a rustic sack filled with heated beans to keep the homemade rolls warm. All were delicious, especially the flaky onion brioche which I slathered with the marjoram and bacon butters.

An amuse bouche of Duck Cassonade was an excellent opener – silky savoury custard, fragrant from black truffle shavings. Canapés to share followed, and in the name of fairness we painstakingly split each tiny morsel to taste them all (how many canapés would a group of three receive I wonder).

Nibbles done, we moved onto the 8-course tasting menu proper. The Beetroot Fondant was a vibrant medley of raw and cooked jewel-hued beetroot interspersed with blackberries, goat’s curd and salad greens. It would have been a harmonious dish had it not been for a chunk of floral Regent’s Park honeycomb – the root vegetables had enough sweetness to them that made the extra hit of sugar superfluous.

Pigeon Consommé, poured table-side over a plate of seared pigeon, foie gras, pigeon cassonade, chocolate smears and several piles of mysterious powders (I think dehydrated tomato was one of them). It was very clever – the various elements came together as we ate, flavouring the consommé and saucing the game at the same time.

The Hand-dived Marinated Scallop in contrast, disappointed. Although bouncy raw cubes of squid, tart apple slivers and squishy tapioca added interest, the scallops lacked typical sweetness and were too finely sliced, leading to the supposed star of the dish being eclipsed by the ribbon of salty lardo crudo.

Presumably the kitchen intended to serve the Braised and Poached Leeks crunchy but we were hoping for a more soft silken texture, characteristic of braising. That said, the flavours did work and the garnish of shaved sauternes foie gras added depth and a certain richness, while keeping everything relatively light.

Chorizo Baked Cod was a great play on textures – moist fork-tender fish, softly elastic 24 hour cooked squid and a crunchy curl of crisped skin, all resting in a milky pool of cod soup.

Piglet, served with roasted gem lettuce, pineapple and sage, was a tale of two halves – the rack was pink and succulent with a beautiful crisp skin, but the porcine roll on the side was dry and stringy. The pineapple fondant was also too sweet to counter the fattiness of the meat – something with a little more acidity (like the more traditional pairing of apple) would have been a better match.

Portions were generous, and by the time our cheese course hit the table we were pretty much ready to burst. It was a good selection though, complimented well by a side of poached pear and various toasts and fruit preserves, and we found ourselves polishing it off with the remainder of our wine – an intriguing South African Chenin Blanc, Testalonga “El Bandito” which was beautifully complex and conjured an image of apple brandy barrels.

The Carrot Granité featuring sauternes jelly, carrot juice, pickled carrots, carrot cake and toasted seeds was very similar to a dessert I’ve eaten at Aikens in the past. All a bit too carroty for me and I’d imagine not everyone’s cup of tea – possibly not the best choice for the sole dessert in a tasting menu.

Defeated, we skipped coffee and asked for our petits four to go (the waiter happily obliged). Sipping a mug of tea and picking at the contents of our takeaway box the next day, we recounted our meal and noted how it felt like a diluted experience of the former restaurant, pre-financial woes. However it wasn’t a bad meal in itself, and for those new to Tom’s cooking, it would be worth a try.

Tom Aikens
43 Elystan Street
London SW3 3NT

t. 020 7584 2003

copita

Still reeling from the fabulous eats in New York I was feeling slightly down about being back. Thankfully all it took was a sunshine-soaked Saturday of eating – fat juicy Big Apple Hot Dog franks (heaps better than the dogs we ate in the actual Big Apple), bahn mi from the lovely Banhmi11 girls, the Ribman‘s HF-spiked baby back rolls (all at eat.st) and a stunning array of bijoux plates at Copita – to lift me back up, and remind me just how great we have it here in London.

The latter, a cosy tapas nook on one of the quieter streets of Soho, charmed me immediately with its weathered wooden counters, checkerboard floors and gleaming white brick tiles. The delicious food was as effortless as the surroundings – a duo of Boquerones featured fleshy vinegary sardines (instead of the customary white anchovies) bathed in fruity parsley and chilli-specked olive oil.

Warm lightly-crumbed Pea and Fresh Cheese Croquets broke open to reveal vibrant green mousse-like innards, sweet from the pea and subtly laced with truffle oil.

A small bowl of Ajo Blanco (a traditional almond and garlic white gazpacho) was velvety and studded with sweet beetroot cubes, sharp grapes and roughly-chopped almonds. Rich, but nicely balanced.

Chicken Kiev was a golden ballotine oozing warm butter onto a bed of creamy white beans and tender spinach. Admittedly not the best kiev I’ve sunk my teeth into, but a very respectable version.

Turbot isn’t usually found on small plate menus (and priced rather reasonably at that) so we felt compelled to order it. An excellent decision – the fish, laid on a luscious broad bean and pancetta sauce, was faultless – barely opaque and firm yet yielding.

Pork Cheek Kebab came cocooned in a gorgeous chewy duvet of wood-fired bread. Nicely accented with a cool dollop of yoghurt and refreshing matchsticks of apple and kohlrabi.

Quail, Morcilla and Chestnut was another winner – moist crisp-skinned bird, intense black pudding morsels and smooth purée all worked together like a dream.

Well-fed, satisfied and with no room for dessert, we asked for the bill only to be brought a forgotten plate of Smoked Wild Mushrooms topped with a quivering molten Egg Yolk. Incredible last dish to a fantastic meal. The perfect welcome home.

Copita
26 D’arblay Street
London W1F 8EP

t. 020 7287 7797

new york – last few tidbits.

You would be mistaken if you thought we didn’t splash out a little while in the Big Apple. We did eat at three Michelin-starred restaurants: Eleven Madison Park (3*), Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare (3*) and Momofuku Ko (2*), but unfortunately I won’t be blogging any of these as the latter two specifically forbade cameras at the table and my photos from the dimly-lit Eleven Madison Park were totally unusable. Quick verdict? Brooklyn Fare was up there with the best we have had as we were utterly blown away by the genius of Chef Cesar Ramirez, while the others, despite fleeting moments of brilliance left us disappointed overall.

Besides those meals, a dedicated eating trip to NYC would not have been complete without some stolen bites between meals…

Day one was a deep-fried poultry fiesta – not only did we have Hot Fried Chicken at The Dutch and half a Buttermilk Fried Rabbit at Fatty ‘Cue, we also chomped on spicy wings from not one, but two Korean Fried Chicken joints. At KyoChon we boldly went for the spicy Signature Wings – they were ridiculously tasty with a nice crunchy crust, but were so crazy hot that after a few bites the burn set in and we lost all sensation in our taste buds. After furious gulps of icy lager we popped next door to BonChon for more wings. Mouths still on fire, we opted for half soy garlic and half hot sauce – the texture of these weren’t as good as Kyochon’s and tasted a lot greasier. We found both just ok and were bummed that Mad for Chicken nearby (the place we had initially travelled to Koreatown for) was closed that day.

Next day, en route to Fatty Crab we passed a branch of Gray’s Papaya so we stopped for their “recession special” – two dogs and a drink for under $5. The snappy dogs, topped with sauerkraut and onions, were tasty and not bad considering the price but on the salty side. The papaya drink alongside however tasted completely artificial and just plain weird.

Later that same day we sampled another hot dog, this time at Madison Park’s Shake Shack. The bun was better, but the vienna beef dog, having been split and griddled, was a tad dry. We of course also had a ShackBurger which was good as far as fast food burgers go (fresh ingredients and a good toasted bun) but we thought the patties too soft and lacking deep beefy flavour.

We wanted to check out a few food trucks while in town but only managed one – Korilla, pitched near our hotel at Varick and Vandam. The burrito stuffed with bulgogi ribeye and bacon kimchi fried rice sounded awesome but yet again, we were headed to lunch, so settled for a trio of tacos – two bulgogi ribeye and a pulled pork (the chicken had just gone on the grill and wasn’t ready).

We had them with all the fixings: Korean hot sauce, shredded monterey jack, tomato salsa, and a selection of homemade kimchis – red kimchi on one beef, summer kimchi on the other, kimchi slaw on the pork, and cucumber kimchi on the side. Each tasted distinct from the next, but all had a great balance of spicy/salty/sweet/sharp and had us licking our fingers. Worth a try.

Given the magnificent weather, it wasn’t long before we were hankering for something frosty to cool down. A soft serve from Big Gay Ice Cream Shop (I had seen it featured on an episode of The Best Thing I Ever Ate) seemed just the ticket, so we trotted on down after our lunch at Mary’s.

The Salty Pimp cone was a revelation – creamy vanilla soft serve sprinkled liberally with sea salt, piped with rows of dulce de leche, and dipped in chocolate that hardened to form a crisp shell. We happily devoured them in the park opposite until a drug-peddling Downton Abbey-loving bum scared us away.

And that’s all folks. To close, a shot of the Dou Fu Fa gleaned from the tofu lady in chinatown. Silky silky goodness.

Kyochon 319 5th Ave, New York, NY 10016
BonChon 325 5th Ave, New York NY 10016
Gray’s Papaya 2090 Broadway Ste 1, New York, NY 10023
Shake Shack various locations – check website.
Korilla BBQ various locations – check schedule.
Big Gay Ice Cream Shop 125 East 7th St (1st Aven & Ave A) NY 10009

xi’an famous foods

While picking up tips on where to snack in New York, I was persuaded by the ever reliable L to try Xi’an Famous Foods. Our timetable was already jam-packed, but she reasoned that the Chang-an Spicy Tofu (one of their specialities) was pretty small and I could squeeze that in if nothing else. That seemed logical to me, so I convinced B to partake in a post-Minetta nibble with me at their East Village branch. Of course once I was there I couldn’t resist ordering a few more dishes…

The small pot of tofu was indeed lovely – warm, silken and bathed in a zha cai (Sichuanese preserved vegetable) studded piquant chilli oil. The Liang Pi Cold Skin Noodles were also interesting both in texture (chewy hand-torn wheat noodles, crunchy cucumber, spongy gluten) and taste (tangy and hot). This is the cuisine of Western China, an intriguing hybrid of Chinese and Middle Eastern flavours.

The influences of the latter cuisine were pronounced in the Spicy Cumin Lamb Burger – a flatbread sandwich stuffed with cumin-spiced lamb, jalapenos and onions. Very tasty, but I would’ve liked some salad or pickles to freshen it up a bit.

The best dish was the Spicy and Tingly Lamb Face Salad, a taste bud-popping tangle of gelatinous lamb muscle and tendon, cooling cucumber and sprightly bean sprouts tossed in a fiery mouth-numbing sauce. Definitely worth stuffing my face for before our flight (the plane meal was rubbish anyway).

Xi’an Famous Foods
81 St. Mark’s Place
(at 1st Ave.)
New York, NY 10003

t. 347-294-0022