Already open a fortnight, I’m way behind on shouting the praises of MEATliquor, the latest, and at last permanent digs of the #MEATEASY folk grill master Yianni Papoutsis and pub supremo Scott Collins. Situated in the highly accessible W1 postcode (hurrah!) on Wellbeck Street, just behind Debenhams, the burger mecca is open 5 days a week from noon till late.
Inside, the decor is dark and edgy – interesting albeit slightly disconcerting, especially in the daytime (when I made my visit). But I kinda love it – the grungy dirtiness would be, I think, pretty awesome at night.
The dirty fried chicken I desperately wanted to try had yet to make it on the menu, so we settled for fried pickles and buffalo wings to start. The pickles were good indeed – juicy sharp dill pickle slices encased in golden crunchy batter and eaten dunked in the cool blue cheese sour cream dip. I wish they had been cut smaller though – a higher batter to pickle ratio would make a better balance.
Buffalo Wings piled onto the same paper-lined tray (no poncey presentation here) were served with the same pot of sauce on the side. Personally I favour more piquancy and heat; still they were very tasty and moreish.
The star of the show was without doubt the burgers. One bite into my Dead Hippie and I was in meat heaven. Two handsome crusty patties draped with molten American cheese, pink and moist in the middle, tucked snuggly in a soft toasted bun.
Shredded lettuce and pickle slices added freshness and bite, and the secret onion-speckled sauce put this beauty over the top. Every mouthful induced sighs of pleasure – if there is a finer burger in London I have not tasted it.
With all the meat we had ordered we felt the need for some token vegetables so ordered a helping of coleslaw. Probably wasn’t all that good for us – creamy as it was – but who cares, it tasted great.
I cannot stress enough how much you need Meat Liquor in your life. Seriously, I’m already mentally clearing my schedule for another visit. If you love, or even like burgers you need to trot on down and join the queue (the only downside – I have heard most nights the lines snake round the block).
74 Welbeck Street
London W1G 0BA
t. 020 7224 4239